How to choose the right eyelash style for your client’s eye shape

Rimvita Marcinkeviciute
Rimvita Marcinkeviciute

Founder of RM Lash & Beauty and professional lash expert

Rimvita Marcinkeviciute educates other lash artist how to choose the right eyelash style for your client’s eye shape.
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Just like snowflakes, every one of your clients are unique. They will all have slightly different eye shapes, natural eyelash lengths and curls, plus different opinions of what kind of eyelash style they like. 

Your cute cropped bob haircut suits you, but it would never suit your best friend, who looks amazing with her long, thick locks. 

Eyelashes are no different. The style that works for one client will look mismatched on another. 

It’s your job to use your lash artist skills and determine which eyelash style will make each of your clients’ eyes pop whilst also advising your client on why their favourite celebrity look may not work for them.

Wide-set eyes

Clients with wide-set eyes have a gap between the eyes that is larger than a single eye’s width. 

If you decide that your client has wide-set eyes, you’ll want to place longer lash extensions at the centre and fan out gradually in both directions, dropping the length of the lash, as you reach the outer and inner corners.

Deep-set eyes

Deep-set eyes sit back further within the eye socket. Eyelash extensions are brilliant for drawing deep-set eyes out of the face, giving them the prominence that they may not have had before. 

If you’re working on a client with deep-set eyes, you’ll want to create length right across the eyeline, placing the longest extensions right at the centre. This will create the vision of bigger, open eyes.

Close-set eyes

If the gap between a client’s eyes, is smaller than the width of one eye, then they have, what is known as, close-set eyes. 

When working on a client with close-set eyes, you’ll need to place the extensions with the greatest length at the outer corners, or where the eyebrows arch. 

This creates a cat-eye effect, which will ‘pull’ the eyes outwards, giving the illusion that they are wider. 

When selecting a curl for close-set eyes, pay special attention to which direction the natural lashes are growing. For example, if they are growing downwards, CC or D curls will give them the lift they need.

Protruding eyes

As eye-shapes go, protruding eyes are usually round and on the larger side. They are often a ‘feature’ of the face and attract attention because of their boldness. 

As clients with protruding eyes are already gifted with big, wide eyes, the goal of the lash extensions here is to add softness, by working with shorter, straighter extensions. 

To add shape, you can also apply longer extensions (but not too long) to the outer corners, which will create a cat eye effect and give the client more definition.

Rounded eyes

Eyes that are as wide as they are round, or there abouts, are known as rounded eyes. Clients with rounded eyes will usually appear bright and alert, but a few lash extensions in the wrong places can make them look in a constant state of shock or surprise. 

To soften the eye, by creating a more almond shape, you should apply the longest lash extensions to the outer eye. Using a softer curl will also prevent the eyes from popping too crazily.

Almond-shaped eyes

Almond-shaped eyes, like Kim Kardashian’s, can really shine with expertly applied eyelash extensions. You can tell if a client has almond eyes if the eyes are longer in width than they are round and if the corners of the eyes taper into a point. 

If your client has almond eyes, avoid applying longer lashes to the outer corner and instead focus on keeping them to about two-thirds of the way along the eye. From there, you can gradually shorten the eyelashes towards the outer corners of the eye.

Hooded eyes/monolids

If a client’s eyes are open, they don’t have a visible eyelid, and they have hooded eyes. As a result, the lash line can look quite heavy. 

In this case, it’s your job to open those eyes up and take some weight off of that lash line! Using super curly extensions, with the longest placed at the mid to outer part of the eye, you’ll create the illusion that the eyes are fuller and wider.

Downturned eyes

Sometimes, clients with downturned eyes can appear sad or tired, even when they are not. You can tell if a client has downturned eyes, by looking at the outer corner of their eyes, which will be angled downwards. 

The best way to lift these outer corners is by creating a cat-eye effect, with longer extensions at the outer corners and more tapered extensions at the inner corners.

Mapping technique

Once you’ve figured out the kind of eyes you’re working with, it’s time to get mapping. The mapping technique is a brilliant way to ensure precision and accuracy, which will guarantee that your clients get the eyelashes of their dreams. 

Although you are, of course, the expert, make sure that you consult with your client before you start mapping, as they may be particularly passionate about having a certain eyelash style. 

It’s is important that you offer your expert opinion in a kind, supportive way, explaining to your client how different eye shapes suit different eyelash extension styles.

Remember, your main priority should be enhancing the unique natural beauty of each individual client. You should find that every eyelash style, which you map out on your gel eye pads, is slightly different, even compared to maps for clients with a similar eye shape. 

Above all, don’t forget that practice makes perfect! If you don’t quite get a style spot-on the first time, keep trying – it’s only a matter of time before you’re a master at choosing the right eyelash style for every client’s eye shape.

If you like this article, you might also enjoy following our Instagram account, where I post daily tips and guidance about eyelash extensions.

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